Places/Poland

Lesser Poland

Krakow

A complete old centre, a castle on a hill, and a history next door that is not a day trip you improvise.

Krakow’s square is one of the large civic rooms of Europe, and the Cloth Hall in the middle is a building, not a backdrop. The city is walkable and more interesting in Kazimierz than in a loop of the same lanterns.

Auschwitz is near, and it is not an attraction you attach to a lunch. If you go, go as its own day, with a booking, and without a plan to be charming afterwards.

See

• The square, more than once

  Morning for the scale, evening for the life. The trumpeter is a tradition. You do not need to wait for him to have seen the room.

• Wawel

  The castle hill above the river. The exteriors and the walk may be enough. The interiors are a ticket and a crowd. Choose.

• Kazimierz

  The old Jewish quarter, synagogues, and streets that are now also restaurants. Walk it with the history in mind, not only the wine list.

• The river path

  Below Wawel, along the Vistula. A free hour that stops the trip being only courtyards.