Places/Portugal

Lisbon

Lisbon

Hills, tiles, a river that is almost the sea, and a city that punishes thin shoes.

Lisbon is walked, slowly, and often uphill. The miradouros are free and they are the right way to understand how the city folds. Trams are charming and full; use them when they help, not as the itinerary.

The light is the famous thing and it is not exaggerated. January is workable in a coat. August is busy and bright. The cobbles are always the cobbles.

See

• A viewpoint in the morning

  Senhora do Monte or Santa Catarina before the day is occupied. Bring nothing you need a table for.

• Belém, as a half day

  The tower and the monastery if you care about the Age of Discovery as history rather than as a selfie. The pastel de nata is a separate, smaller pilgrimage. Go early.

• A neighbourhood that is not a lane of tiles

  Campo de Ourique for lunch, or a walk to LX Factory only if you like warehouses of shops. The city is better in its grocery streets.

• The river once

  Cais do Sodré toward the water, or a ferry to the other bank for the view back. You do not need a sunset cruise.