Places/Czechia

Prague

Prague

A beautiful city with a famous bridge, and a real city just behind the lanes that lead to it.

Prague’s old centre is as handsome as people say, which is why it is also crowded in a narrow way: the same three streets, all day. Sleep outside that funnel and walk in before the groups have finished breakfast.

Czechia is not on the euro. The city is not a cheaper Vienna. It is itself, and the beer is a normal part of lunch rather than a challenge.

See

• Charles Bridge, early

  Before nine, from the Malá Strana side. At noon it is a market of portraits you did not sit for.

• The castle as a district

  The cathedral, a view, and then leave. The whole complex can be a long walk with not enough seats. You do not need every room.

• Vinohrady or Letná

  A park, a neighbourhood high street, people going home. This is how you stop seeing only sandstone.

• A concert only if the hall is real

  The Municipal House or a proper church series. Avoid the person in costume selling a candlelit evening of hits.