Places/Croatia

Dalmatia

Split

A living city built into a Roman palace. More useful than Dubrovnik, and less fragile.

Split’s old centre is Diocletian’s palace, still used as streets, flats and cafés. That is more interesting than a monument you enter and leave. People hang washing above Roman masonry. Believe the city.

It is the practical base for islands — Hvar, Brač, Vis — if you give an island a night rather than a return ticket squeezed around lunch.

See

• The palace as a neighbourhood

  The peristyle, the cathedral that was a mausoleum, then a café in a courtyard. Wander without a numbered list.

• The Riva

  The palm walk on the sea. A place to sit, not a sight to complete.

• Marjan hill

  A pine headland with views back at the port. The local walk. Go late in the day.

• One island, if the ferry is kind

  A morning boat, a swim, a night if you can. A three-hour turnaround is how islands become disappointing.